Rolex Models
Air-King: The Air-King could be considered the "entry level" model from Rolex. Current models retail for $3200 with the smooth bezel fitted, or $3250 with the engine turned bezel. It is 34mm in diameter and comes with an Oyster bracelet by default. The Air-King does not have a Date. In the 1970s, the Air-King was offered with a date (scarce!) and in gold & steel combinations. Those two variations likely ceased production since they are redundant next to the Date and Oyster Perpetual models.
Date: The Rolex Date is 34mm like the Air-King, but it obviously includes a date function. It is offered in 3 flavors: steel, 18k yellow & steel, and all 18k yellow gold. Its production began in the late 1950s around the time the steel Datejust was introduced. Retails range from $3625 with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet to $14,050 in 18k gold on a Jubilee band.
Datejust: The Datejust is the best selling Rolex model on the market, and has been for
decades. It was first introduced in 1945. The gents model is 36mm in diameter and
typically came on a Jubilee bracelet. Rolex seems to have changed their tradition on this, and is sending more
Datejust models out the door with the Oyster band. Models with smooth bezels exist, but are more scarce.
Most have the fluted bezel, which is 18k white gold on the steel model.
The Datejust is currently being phased to a new series...
In steel, they start at $3875 retail for the smooth bezel (16200), $4525 with 18k white gold bezel (16234). You'll likely find
these "current" models at your local Rolex dealer, next to the newer 116234 which has a newer style bracelet and
retails for $5300. $7325 for a Gold & Steel combo... and in gold $18,350 with bracelet or $13600 with leather strap on a gold deployant
buckle.
The Datejust was only available in gold until 1957 (conveniently a year after the release of the Day-Date which still has never seen a steel model).
The steel Datejust was introduced and became an instant success. Rolex soon saw the steel variations selling much
quicker than their gold models. Rolex countered this in 1962 when they introduced the gold and steel version..
- Current Datejust Selection
Ladies Date/Datejust: These two models use the same 26mm case mold and offer the exact same functionality. Today, the difference lies in the metals. If you want a ladies in steel, you get the Date. Models with gold or platinum are only available with Datejust on the dial. The steel model with 18k white bezel is a Datejust. Retails range from $3575 for all Date models, $4950 for the most current 179174 steel Datejust. The Gold & Steel models are $4650 (79173) and $5950 (179173) for the old and new styles. In gold, it can be seen at $14,350 for yellow and rose, and $17,300 for white gold.
Explorer: It was introduced in 1954,
and has had one look through-out its life;
a black dial with Arabic numbers at 3', 6' and 9', no date, smooth
bezel, Oyster bracelet, and a stainless steel 36mm case. Except for the updates that all Rolex watches have
received, it remains essentially the same watch.
Today the watch retails for $3750.
Explorer II: This model was introduced in the early 70's and was never widely
distributed or popular until 1991. The original model was produced until the current
model was released in 1985. The Explorer II uses the same movement as the GMT-II models
and makes use of a secondary 24-hour hand that rotates once every day. The engraved steel bezel
is stationary and was originally designed for speleologists (cave explorers) who
can have a hard time determining if it is am or pm.
Today it retails for $4450 and comes with only one choice: a black or a white dial.
- Current Rolex Explorer Selection
Oyster Perpetual: An odd name for a model considering every Rolex mentioned on this page is also an Oyster Perpetual... By itself, the "Rolex Oyster Perpetual" is basically the same as the Air-King. Currently Rolex only produces the watch in two-tone and all gold configurations (Today, the Air-King is only in steel). Retails are $5350 for the 18k & steel model to $13,250 for the 18k model with a fluted bezel. All come standard with an Oyster bracelet. - Current Oyster Perpetual Selection
Submariner: The Submariner was introduced by Rolex in 1954. The watch comes only on an Oyster bracelet and has a 40mm case. The steel model is only available with a black dial. It has the common single direction rotating bezel with minute markers for the first 15 minutes. The original models until 1958 are often considered "James Bond" models and have some easily recognizable difference. Primarily, they had a smaller crown, no crown guard, and the bezel only had minute markers every 5 minutes. In the late 70s the model 16800 was introduced. It sported the new sapphire crystal and quick-set function. In 1989, the current 16610 was introduced with a improved movement and a more secure bezel. The Submariner is one the most popular models and comes in 4 styles, $3800 for steel (no date), $4525 for steel (with date), $7100 for 18k & steel, and $20,850 for the all gold model. - Current Submariner Selection
Sea Dweller: The Sea Dweller was introduced in 1971. It is virtually the same watch as the Submariner. The only real differences are the thicker and heavier steel case, thicker crystal with not cyclops eye, and the helium escape valve useful only to deep divers. The original model was rated for 2000 feet and called the "Rolex Submariner 2000 Sea Dweller". It lost the "Submariner 2000" part of the title in 1973. The current issue, model 16600, is rated to 4000 feet and is sold only in steel for a $4700 retail.
GMT-Master:
The 1950s were an exciting decade for Rolex and included the introduction of the classic GMT- Master. It was one of the first watches to utilize a second hour hand to indicate a second time zone. With the simple rotating 24 hour bezel, one could fairly easily tell the time in any time zone. The late 70s saw the introduction of the GMT-Master II which was basically the same, except now the user could easily adjust the 2nd hour hand with the crown in position 2. The steel models are only offered with black dials. The bezels are available in all black, red/ black, or red / blue. GMT's typically come with a Jubilee bracelet installed.
The original GMT-Master (16700) was phased out in the late 90s. The latest serial number Bernard's had for the 16700 was a U#, putting its birthday around 1997. With the flood of new models with a second time zone function from other manufactures, retiring it was a smart move, as most consumers will want to adjust the 2nd hour hand.
The GMT-Master II retails for $4525 in steel, $7025 in steel & gold, and $18,700 for solid gold. There is also a 50th Anniversary model, offered with a green dial, but only in 18k.
- Current GMT-Master Selection
Daytona / Cosmograph: The story of the Rolex Cosmograph could be called the most chaotic of all the Rolex Oyster models. Rolex is keen on creating a winning product. The watch never really got off the ground until 1986 when the market for them exploded and the watches would often sell for double the retail price in Italy. The "Paul Newman" models manufactured around 1967 were and still are the most desirable of the Daytona models fetching prices over $30,000. It retailed for around $150 back then. In 1989, Rolex replaced the Valjoux workhorse movement with the Zenith El Premiro movement. During the 1990s, the Daytona was the only Rolex model not using a Rolex movement. In 2000 came the newly developed Rolex caliber 4130 with a 72 hour power reserve. The steel 116520 retails at $6975. S&G for $11275. $16,900 for 18k Yellow on leather deployant. Steel Daytona's have consistently sold for more than retail since the 1980s. The two-tone and gold models aren't treated with the same regard and discounts can be found. Current Daytona Selection
